Paul0568 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 10:45 pm
Where did you buy the replacement parts and did you fit them yourself.
If so, was it straightforward?
Hi Paul,
Regards sourcing them - i was in contact with Frosty following a post of his some time ago where he replaced the same arms, i think the best option at the time was Autodoc but they couldn't help me when i enquired recently. So i found a company called Ace Parts based in Sittingbourne who were the only UK supplier who claimed to have all four in stock. I thought this would be quicker than using a German company. Following placement of the order they cancelled half of it and messed me about with two sperate refunds at different times (neither amount matching the value of any of the four items) and caused subsequent confusion over which two parts they actually had and which two they didnt.
I wouldn't recommend using Ace Parts, and i wont use them again. In the end they supplied the "front front" lower arms- the curved ones, which still took a while to arrive, i suspect they were dispatched from Germany on placement of order anyway.
I then ordered the remaining "front rear" lower arms (the ones the shocker connects to) from ATP Autoteile GmbH (obviously in Germany), and with hindsight should have ordered all four from here. Good service and arrived quicker (via UPS) than the other arms. This link should hopefully take you straight to them:
https://www.atp-autoteile.de/de/search/ ... lemfoerder
Regards fitting them - after watching two or three you tube vids of F1X control arm changes i decided that although not the nicest job it was well within the realms of my capability, so i gave it a shot on axle stands at home. It turned out to be pretty straightforward.
The engine undertray has to be removed for a start, so if you have any doubt over the condition of the speed fastener fixings make sure you have some new ones handy (the old rusty screws are prone to shearing)
As well as the main engine undertray there are two smaller quadrant trims under the front bumper at each end. These have to come off to access the front front arm fixing bolts.
Some Youtube videos also removed more trim from inside the wheelarches where the "front rear" arms protrude from, and even the next big undertray back that covers the gearbox, so that they can better get at the fixings for the same front rear arms. I managed to do the job without removing these extra covers, and without damaging anything.
First removed the bolt from the shock absorber, which then drifted out without any issue (i was concerned there would be some tension or compression here, but no)
Then both ball joint nuts- you need a 24mm (ring) spanner here, plus T50 male Torx to put through the spanner to stop the whole ball joint from spinning. Make sure you clean the threads and apply some penetrating oil to ease the process of unfastening.
After that you can start on the inner fixings - you need an E20 female Torx for these. Again clean the threads and apply some oil.
The front front ones have a captive nut but the rears have a separate nut, of which i cant remember the size (21mm maybe)
The front rear arm bolts take some fiddling out due to the proximity of the steering rack gaiters but they do pass under with a bit of manipulation. I also had to displace some wiring on the passenger side to get the wrench on, by unbolting the wiring carrier but that's easy enough.
Then refitting is the reversal of removal as they say!
I started with the front front arms, but i dont think it really matters which one you fit first.
Put the inner bolts in first and then locate the ball joints. Be careful tightening the ball joints that you don't twist the boots- hold in place with the T50 Torx.
Locating the shock absorber onto the new arm is fairly easy, i used a jack to lift the hub slightly to bring it up to the shocker, and a long drift just to tap the end of the shock into position and the bolt just taps back through. No issues with tension or compression if you get the position right.
Then once you've tightened everything back up properly its covers back on and job done. I copper slipped everything for future ease, including the undertray fixings...
Note the original bolts are TIGHT! The job would be far easier on a ramp so you can use longer bars- i needed a 2ft tube on top of the ratchet to crack the inner arm bolts. And obviously because of that make sure the car is secure in the air because you really have to swing on it!
Then you can spend the next day or so aching like mad from rolling around on the drive!
Time wise i'd say an hour or so to get the car on stands with the wheels and undertrays off, then a couple of hours per side to do the job (maybe a bit longer on your first side) and another hour or so to put the covers back and get it down on the floor. A days work essentially, to take your time and do a thorough job.
Mine still drives perfectly straight, but i'm having the alignment checked later this week just to be sure.
Hope that helps if you choose to take it on, although perhaps they've been done prior to your ownership?
That said they may be getting round for replacement again! Great mileage
